Saturday, November 22, 2014

More about the trip....or less

Stayed home all day today (Saturday) waiting for the Dish TV guy to come and he never showed up! Hmmm just like in the United States ha ha!

Our time in Morelia was great! Such a beautiful city. The population is almost 700,000 and it's in the mountains at about 6000 feet. Other info:

 The heart of the historic center is the Cathedral and its surrounding plazas: the Plaza de Armas, also known as the Plaza de los Mártires, the Juárez Plaza and the Melchor Ocampo Plaza. The largest plaza is the Plaza de Armas, which has been remodeled several times since it was designed in the 16th century. The first church on the Cathedral site was built in 1577, which was a modest structure of adobe and wood. Many years later, this structure would be almost completely destroyed by a fire.[2] Originally, the Cathedral of Michoacán was in Pátzcuaro in a church that now is the Basilica of Nuestra Señora de la Salud. When cathedral status was moved from there to Valladolid in 1580, the city became the civil, religious and cultural capital of the territory

The surrounding areas of the city are forests and very beautiful. It's funny- in the cities, Mexico is sooo crowded, but out in the country there is just so much open land. At first I thought it was just the deserts- of course, who wants to live in the hot desert and what about water, etc? But in the state of Guerrero, which is pretty tropical, at least on the west side (don't know about the eastern borders of the state), but when we would drive to a bigger city to the south to shop (which was an hour's drive instead of 2 hours to the north to Acapulco), we also drove thru mountains and there again was so much open land. Anyway although we were in a hotel in the central historic district, we drove all over the place with Pablo (Everardo's brother), and it is a crowded city. Always lots of traffic. Really nice areas, beat up areas, poor areas...yeah lots of poor areas. It's like Mexico has rich people and poor people and not too much inbetween. I mean the people who have jobs and houses, by US standards  thinkstill have to be labeled poor. People do have houses- but what kind of shape are they in? Many times a person or a family starts with one cement square room. Then when they can, they add another room...maybe a second story. The kitchen or bathroom may start out outside and later become an inside room. They may or may not have electricity. Then there's the "infovit" houses; the tiny houses the government builds and helps people to buy. I'm not sure what the criteria is, but you can make the first "down payment", and then the payments come out of your paycheck. When these houses get built in huge complexes they are harder to add on to, but usually start out better equipped. We actually looked in a few when we first came north to Sonora and were looking for places to rent...but they are so small, double beds take up entire bedrooms....all the rooms are small. Now, for someone with no home and no prospects....small is SO much better than nothing. We also looked at some over here in Baja; they were like one step up, a little bigger, more rooms, but still tiny- might have worked for us if they had had yards or were close to an open space for Sam. As it turned out we were lucky, so lucky to find this tiny mobile home right on the beach. Our bed is queen size- a king would not fit....well anyone reading this knows what a small trailer is like. But our dogs run free, and the ocean is out my kitchen door window. Wow- I really get off track don't I? ha ha

I took so many pictures in Morelia- lots of us, sitting in a sidewalk cafe, looking at the Day of the Dead alters, in our hotel rooms, standing in little plazas...eating all kinds of yummy stuff! But I also took tons of pictures of just people. People are so interesting...people walking down the sidewalk, shopping, picking up their kids at school, sitting near us in outside eateries.....And so many types, very modern...that would be young people mostly, then very traditionally dressed, and everything in between, like any huge metropolitan city. Pablo used to be a traffic cop in the city and is now retired. He doesn't need the money but works in the parking lot of one of the big stores, directing cars, helping people with their groceries. I think it's a tips job- meaning your pay is what customers give you. Almost all of the stores do not pay their baggers; it's all tips. In Costco I think they might pay them, but not the guys who work in the parking lot, and actually Costco is the only store I've seen where you don't tip the baggers. Anyway Pablo was able to take as much time as he wanted to spend with us, and he took us to a couple of "hole in the wall" places to eat- which are always the best, and we got to meet his son and other daughter- ok well I got to meet them- Everardo already knew them.

So one day we met up with Pablo and his 2 daughters and went to Patzcuro for a fair they were having for Day of the Dead. It was like a country fair, tons of food and things for sale- not rides or anything. There was a speech by the town's mayor I think, but mostly booths and vendors. I got my face painted like a skeleton and kept it all day; scared some little kids ha ha, but back in Morelia there were other people walking in the streets with their faces painted and some in full costume. It was a nice day. And a couple of days later when the truck broke down outside Patzcuro is made it a little more comfortable than finding ourselves stuck in a strange place.

We left Morelia on Monday morning early, but went to a auto parts store and then a mechanic at the edge of town in the direction we were going to have this part put on. Poppi was sure this was the reason the truck was starting not to run very well.....hmmm turned out we were there for hours! Until mid afternoon, and then we were finally on the road...drove for about 20 minutes down the highway towards Patzcuro....and we broke down....yeah that wasn't what was wrong after all....I had finished a book, started a journal so I could write in this blog...snacked and napped. There was a huge pitbull straining at a barred window near the truck and Everardo warned me not to go near him. I could see this dog was all wiggly when I talked to her...but I stayed away. Sometimes a dog is fine until you go into their space, their car, yard, etc. Sam was like that in Petaluma with strangers- if he came out the gate onto the sidewalk he was fine....but if YOU came in thru the gate he charged at you growling. Now he never bit anybody...but ha ha we had to move our mailbox off the porch and onto the house wall along the driveway because he hated the mailman, and then by extension it seemed...anbody in a uniform...like the UPS guy, the Fed X guy....cops...Well at the end of the day, when Everardo was test driving the truck (which as it turns out was not long enough for it to really warm up and then crap out), the guy let the dog out and she was sweet as a bug. All wiggly and happy to get some lovin'.

So that's how we ended up in Patzcuro...and we pulled off the side of the highway and tried to limp to a mechanic shop....waited at a train track for the train to pass, and it dies. But the very first person to drive by is a family in a truck and they stop and then offer to tow us to a shop!! Ha ha the rope was kinda short and I just kept singing that "happy happy happy" song (the one that's a utube video on facebook by that rapper Pharrel- who I knew of from that show the Voice ha ha...I had played the video and like it so much I added it to my beach exercise music because I really jumped around to it...so it helped when I was nervous being towed by this short rope on this dirt road in a strange town...) Well that mechanic wasn't there- ..."he'll be back in 40 minutes.." Yeah right- translation maybe back today, or tomorrow....or next week, or...what mechanic? ha ha. Well the truck, after cooling down, started again, and Pablo showed up as well. He had tortas (sandwiches) for us..and after we got to a small gas station/little store square, Pablo and Everardo went to find a mechanic and I stayed with the truck and all our stuff...I only tell this part of the story because Pablo neglected to tell me about the jalapenos on the tortas....aarrgghh that's hot....however I found out why Mexicans eat lots of tortillas (I think)...the bread cooled down my mouth- the water didn't help but the bread did, so I learned an important lesson. ha ha Ok we found a mechanic who had a yard to keep the truck secure overnite and found a motel close by. Thanked Pablo for ALL his help- he is the best brother-in-law ever!...and sent him home. The next day they thought they had it figured out....but no so we had to stay another nite. But....

The cool thing was, we took a cab down to the waterfront- there's a huge lake in Patzcuro, and it has an island in the middle of it called Janitco (spelling). People live on this small island and it's basically a hill with houses on it and a gigantic statute on the top. There are stairs all over the place, and houses on different levels, and lots and lots of tiny shops to explore. We ate at a little restaurant, Poppi had a big fish....but I had chicken,,,why didn't I have local fish? Don't remember now....and we hiked up to the top..actually part way on a winding path along the outside of the town so we were looking at the water, and then to come down we came down stairs and steps and stairs and steps....looked in the shops, chatted with people....and I took lots of photos of course. So if the truck hadn't broken down we wouldn't have had this side adventure, so it was ok. The next morning we picked up the truck and we were off....and made it all the way to Acapulco.

Ok this was my mistake. We were heading for Zijuantenjo, but got there so early in the day that I voted to keep going to Acapulco. Did I mention that I hate getting into strange cities after dark? Especially congested places like Acapulco!! We got there after dark and decided to head for the hotels we knew were by the airport. We missed the turn to take us around the center of the city, and so got stuck in so much traffic! Ok sidenote- in Mexico when you are on a highway heading for one city and you have to go thru another....you don't really "bypass" it...you still go thru it, just maybe not thru the center, but it's still a city so congested, trafficky...and we get lost all the time! I mean there will be signs and then all of a sudden- no signs! For miles, and then maybe it's some weird little turn of some small road....we've gotten lost big time in Guadalajara twice! Ok so we trudge thru the city, dark, loud, so many cars! And then...we have to go on this road that goes along the cliffs that is always slow going anyway, but at that time of day it was horrid! Well our clutch over heated! We were not the only ones, either. By the time we hit the top we couldn't get out of second gear. Terrible end to what started out as a really nice- but long- day. Well we found a motel, and it had a really nice pool with plants all around it, low lighting, and nobody in it- right outside our room. Ah ha so things went back to lookin' pretty good! I think I floated around in that little pool for at least 2 hours. Everardo came in for a few minutes and then went off to find us some food. We ate and fell into bed.

Next morning we left for Playa Ventura, got there in the afternoon after a small detour where we found out a bridge had been washed out...but I think I'll save this story for tomorrow.....Viva!


Friday, November 21, 2014

Back from an amazing roadtrip thru Mexico!

I have been home for a week. I always do this- when I haven't written in a long time I just put it off even more because I think I have sooo much to write- to catch up on...but I think if I just start..anywhere, the words will come....So...

We left on a Monday, the 27th of Oct and drove for 12 hours to get to Hermosillo, Sonora in the middle of the Sonoran desert.

The Sonoran Desert is a North American desert which covers large parts of the Southwestern United States in Arizona and California, and of Northwestern Mexico in Sonora, Baja California and Baja California Sur. It is the hottest desert in North America, with an area of 280,000 square kilometers (110,000 sq mi). The western portion of the United States–Mexico border passes through the Sonoran Desert.

I don't like the desert, which I'm sure I have written before. I know I lived there for an entire year (ooops 11 months I mean) but I always knew I was just a couple of hours away from the Arizona border and then an airport and I could get to Calif...San Francisco. Not sure why that helped but it did. When I'm driving thru the desert I always feel like I can't breathe...like claustrophobia...same way I felt as a kid when we would drive thru the Nevada desert on our family camping vacations during the summer. (Which I loved by the way- we camped all over the northwestern states. sometimes in the desert but mostly in the woods and usually by water...lakes or rivers..) So driving for 12 hours the first day was ok with me because I wanted to get thru the desert. Of course to do that we had to drive all the 2nd day as well. I slept on and off during the trip both days. Poppi was determined to get to his destinations and so drove like a madman...making it 12 hours- ouch! Day 2 found us in Mazatlan so at least we were back at the ocean. But we got up before dawn on the third day and did it again!!! AArrgghh! I thought I had agreed to 2 long driving days and then a whole day in Mazatlan to relax and explore a little bit...but he had in his mind to to make it to Morelia as quickly as possible...and we did. I was pretty unhappy on day 3 and made my unhappiness well known...not our best day.

But....as it turned out it was a good thing. We saw Pablo, Everardo's brother Wednesday evening for dinner and they were so happy to see each other. We found a wonderful hotel in the historic city center that had inside parking. And the other thing was...well we ate good on the way down. I had made hard boiled eggs, we had bread and peanut butter, we had cheese and a huge bag of almonds. We had a bag of apples and a bag of dates. So we didn't eat a bunch a crap, no fast food, no heavy greasy crap....we drank lots of water and made lots of stops. I took tons of pictures. And another thing- really different for us as well. We took the libre roads instead of the cuotas. (Means we drove the free roads instead of the toll roads. People- including me- always say...well just stay on the cuitas and you will be fine...oh and don't drive at nite. Well we didn't drive at nite, except for a few late days where it got dark- I mean daylight savings time is over so it was dark by 6:30 or 7pm.

But the free roads were amazing! Yeah sometimes slow because you are behind a big truck or a line of big trucks, or maybe a line of old beater cars that just don't go so fast. Or the road is a mess, or under construction...or they have SO many topes (road speed bumps) that it takes you ten minutes to move thru a tiny town you coulda walked thru in ten minutes. But these roads lazily ramble thru hills and small villages. Many of these villages are barely that- because when the toll roads were built and these towns were bypassed, well it killed those towns. Nobody was stopping to buy gas, or food, or trinkets...nobody was staying in the town's one motel. So we saw so many different kinds of people, places, and things. We saw school kids everywhere! No matter how poor the town, the kids wear uniforms to school. People were smiling, some....other people looked tired, I took alot of pictures of people's faces....Mexico has so many old people, so many kids, so many in between. So many people. And food stands everywhere. Yeah we brought our own food in the truck as I wrote above- but we usually made one stop a day along a country road. I usually ate frijoles (beans)...and beans are protien and good for ya. Everardo tried whatever they said was best. I had lots of tastes of things...but most things were muy picoso (really spicy hot) ha ha. Now this is not only for the first 3 days, because really those days there was not too much to see on the free roads, but the other days....

One morning coming down a mountain very early, there were wisps of fog, gray skies, little spots of blue trying to fight for space....there was a forest on one side of us and a sweeping valley on the other. We had taken a side road some guys told us about- "turn by the big strawberry" ( it was a huge strawberry-like 3 stories tall), and this road would take us around the city coming up...Zamora I think....and it was kinda winding down this mountain..and the view was so pretty. We drove past a tiny hole in the wall stand where it looked like there was a line of clay pots, and then a couple of women wearing scarves around their heads and shoulders stirring something and possibly making tortillas....one of us remarked oh we shoulda stopped there for breakfast...and then we said- hey! So Poppi turned us around (on a scary corner- but they were all scary since you couldn't see around any of them ha ha), and we went back. Such a GREAT move! All those clay pots were filled with things like frijoles, rice, green salsa, chicarones, birria, toreznos,......and they had this coffee called Olla (Oye-ya), which has this kinda nutty taste. Poppi explained it to me, but I didn't get it ha ha....but it tasted heavenly...he said once people know about it, they always ask for it- he's right! There were 3 women, 2 of which were native Mexicans (Indians) and did not speak Spanish, the 3rd spoke Spanish, so she talked to us. My plate was eggs and beans and some fresh cheese, Everardo had the torenos and chicharones and beans. They made tortillas that were the best I think I ever tasted (usually I don't eat the tortillas just because I'm watching what I eat) We ate and ate...the women were gracious enough to let me hang over their shoulders and take pictures of them and everything. As I was watching one woman making tortillas I could hear slapping across the street. There was an old building there as well...the only 2 buildings on this mountain...anyway I thought it was an echo...ha ha it someone else inside that building must have been making tortillas...but as I write this I realize- wow those walls were paper thin! And it was cold up there on that mountain. Anyway it was a beautiful place, beautiful women, and a very beautiful experience.

Ok-so Morelia was fantastic- might be my new favorite city in Mexico! The elevation is a little over 6 thousand feet...and even that tends to give me a little headache for the first day, but it went away quick- but it might have just been 3 days of driving ha ha. We had one hotel for 2 nites and then another one for the next 3 nites. There was a wedding so the first place was booked after 2 nites. Our room was so big and so pretty...it was actually so big that the next morning I did my whole exercise dance routine on the tile floor while Everardo went to meet his brother! We were in the historic downtown so we could walk a couple of blocks and be in the big plaza...where people were walking, talking, having coffee; there were peaceful protesters marching for the missing students, there was Day of the Dead celebrations....but chatting with some people in a little sidewalk cafe, they told us that it's always that busy there- that there's always something going on. Our second hotel was really beautiful with a curving staircase lines with these beautiful tiles and a salon outside our room, for the upstairs guests, of which there were only about 6 rooms I think, and we never saw anyone up there (but did hear them coming up at nite). It was just around the corner from the first place, and we found a couple of other small plazas in that direction and went to one for breakfast the next day. On Sunday morning we went for a walk and saw that the main street (which is 2.5 lanes each way) was closed. I thought at first it was a marathon because I saw some runner going by, but then a man told us they closed it every Sunday for people to walk, skate, ride bicycles, etc. Then he told us we could rent bicycles....so we did! It was soooo fun! While riding we saw a big Day of the Dead celebration exhibit...so we turned in the bikes and walked back over there. It was the actual Day of the Dead and all the altars were so beautiful, I think I took about 500 pictures!

We spent the Friday before visiting Everardo's sister and taking flowers out to his mother's grave. We saw his nieces and his nephew and came back to her place to eat. I know he won't ever read this, so I will say....his sister's life, the struggles she must face, her life is hard. She lives in a tiny room...it's not 20 feet square....it has a bunk bed...a table and another single bed. The table is inbetween..and it's not a big table. There are some shelves and they are packed with stuff. Clothes, dishes...food. It's a room in a building that's some kind of side building of another house- that her ex inlaws and maybe her exhusband live in. 2 of her adult kids live in this room with her. I think there might be a small tv hooked up. The bathroom is out the door, across a patio and around the corner. I went and used it. Wow it was bad....a torn curtain, and an old toilet that I couldn't flush. I didn't see, but I don't think the area where the inlaws live is any better. She has a piece of land and I think she's building a house on it- but I also think this has been the plan for a few years. She has an old car that looks like she takes good care of it. His family is the horrific poverty we see in Mexico. But you know what? She is always smiling. She made us a nice meal that we all sat on the edges of the beds and shared. It was a kind of little meatball in soup and rice and salad. Really good. I only saw a hot plate but I think there's a stove outside. I was cold there, but they were not- so they were assimilated to the climate and I am not. Her children love her so much, I could see that in how sweet they are with her. The other daughter came by with her little girl who was so happy to see grandma and her aunts and uncles. I believe they all work; the son goes to university but not this semester because he said the teachers striking and now the protests for the missing students - well there was not too many days when school was happening, so he was taking the semester off.This was a tiny town, about an hour outside Morelia; Nieves had lived in Morelia and for a time in Mexico City, but she came back because she liked the small town much better. We drove another hour out to the town Everardo was born in and brought flowers, and Poppi and Nieves cleaned around her burial site, and Pablo and I talked. He has a son who died in a car accident last Feb, and he is still so sad- of course. His son was one month older than my younger daughter- not sure I would survive that. I asked him if we could visit his son's grave and we did that the next day. He and I cried together at both places....he is the sweetest man. I love both of them so much...I see they have the same sweetness as my Everardo.

When we went with Pablo, his daughter (my niece) met us there and I had not met her before (2 years ago when we were there I met Nieve's kids). All the cemeteries have so many flowers! As Poppi says- we Mexicans love our dead. The entire trip we drove by so many cemeteries, especially on the free roads...and they all had so many beautiful decorations. Well I have to go, so I will continue to tell about my trip soon- maybe tonite...viva