Wednesday, June 4, 2014

After 2 years in Mexico

2 years ago we left northern Calif; packed up our little truck and pulling a trailer full of clothes, bicycles, pots and pans, lots of books and just a couple of pieces of furniture (one of which did not survive the trip), my husband, our dog, and I changed our lives forever. We drove south and then east to cross at Santa Teresa, right next to Juarez- which we ended up going thru anyway. We sat at the border for a day and a half because we wanted to nationalize our vehicles, then finally crossed into Mexico. Ha ha we were pulled over within the first half hour by the feds- who were looking for money- which my Mexican husband did not give, even though the feds were sure we didn't pay the right amount at the border for all our stuff, or for the truck, ect. Hubby showed paperwork and stood his ground. Maybe the most effective I have been as a "gringo" woman was on that trip- when every time feds pulled us over, at some point they would notice me, ask who I was, find out I was his esposa- an Americana- and then they would smile politely and send us on our way. However by the time we got to Guerrero (after Chihuahua, Durango, Zacatecas, Jalisco & Michocan) we were only being pulled over by "regular" or state police and they didn't care who I was and we usually paid. Acapulco was the craziest- pulled over 3 times in the first half hour or so, and then finally took our license plates off. Got pulled over again and Everardo angrily asked this cop how much $ to stay with us thru Acapulco. We saw at least 3 other cops be waved off by this guy....However- 6 months later when we packed up again and drove north with Guerrero plates we were not pulled over once. (north after Jalisco was Nyarit, Sinaloa to end in Sonora)

Ok interesting observations or things I have learned or changed:

I never go barefoot. Inside or outside. At first, in Playa Ventura, Guerrero, it was because of scorpions. Ok I shouldn't say "at first" because it's still the main reason- at least indoors....We lived there 6 months and we had 2 in the house and one on the patio that connects the kitchen to the rest of the house. That one was fighting off a puupy who was barking and poking at it and it was waving it's tail and I swear had a mean look in it's eye (ok maybe a little over the top.) So I always wore flip flops or slippers in the house, and tennis shoes or flip flops outside.  This has remained true for all 3 places we have lived or live. My feet have gotten...well wider. I wear a size bigger than when I got here. Fine for slip flops and sandals, but the rest of my shoes are now basically useless. Ouch- I was always a big shoe person, lots and lots of pairs. Now- I heard the extremely mild winter here in Baja is not normal so I may need covered shoes next winter...but unless I'm working out (which is mostly beach dance/walking) and wearing tennis shoes- no covered shoes for me. I don't go barefoot on the beach because sadly there is often garbage on or just under the sand. Maybe fishing stuff, maybe broken bottles, sometimes bones from seals or other fish. Sound yucky but...I found the same to be true in Sonora on the Sea or Cortez, and down in Guerrero the sand could just get too hot.

I don't put my hand way back in shelves or dark closets where I can't see- pretty much the same thing- scorpions, but here in Baja there seems to be a lot of black widow spiders. I go to an AA meeting in English here, in a tiny building, and there are black widows ALL the time- so my logic is then they might be in my house as well.

Ok this is for women only (I think). After living a year and a half in humidity, 9 months of which you are wet and sticky ALL the time- 24/7, pat don't wipe. Obvious conclusion, enough said. 

I never pay for anything I do not have in my hand. Sometimes when today is over- well you simply start over. The telephone company, the electric company, even the bank. And always always a street vendor, a store...etc. Tomorrow does not mean tomorrow. Oh it might....but it also might mean the day after that, next week, next month, never, or...who are you? Anything that needs to get ordered? ha ha have fun with that. Our dogs got their rabies shots, and actually, 7 months later we did just get the tags for their collars. But- when we got the shots, I asked for bordetella shots and the very nice vet said- let me check- no I don't have any but I'll order it, should be here in a week. We'll call you. so 2 weeks later I went back and he said oh bordetella? Let me check- no I don't have any but I'll order it, should be here in a week. We'll call you. Next week- exact same thing. It was all in Spanish, but I was able to ask, do you remember I was here before and asked for it? Oh yes, I remember you. Well we'll call you when it comes in. When we're near there we stop by to ask......Yes comical, sometimes not so much, like the telephone company who accidently over charged us and said- oh we'll reverse it tomorrow- can't right now because the transaction blah blah blah...after a couple of months of driving up to Ensenada and arguing with them, then they wanted us to prove we didn't get the money back! Yeah I'm not allowed in the telephone company anymore. Not by them, more by me and hubby agreement. I lost in there and everyone just looked at me. ha ha. Interestingly, the bank finally took money back.....

Most things are not my business and nobody needs my input. Yes I should have learned this a long time ago and before coming to Mexico. This is a different culture. Dogs are not treasured family members to most Mexican people. (At least where I have been). Expats cherish their pets, but here, in a country so poor, with people simply trying to eat, who may or may not even have plumbing in their homes- dogs are not treasured family members. They might be good to have around, for protection, or...hmmm not sure what. They may or may not get fed, and it may or may not be dog food. Humans eat first. There are sooooo many stray dogs in Mexico! I have seen some dog rescue operations, but they have been expat. Even neutering dogs is just not the culture- that somehow the male dog will lose his "manlihood" his muchismo...Females don't get spayed because- well in many cases- it just doesn't get a second thought. So- for me- if there is a place or a way I can help- fine- but it is not my job or my business to tell (lecture) people on how they should treat their dog.

Maybe it's just animals in general. The horses and the cows around here are so skinny- in Guerrero, too. Ensenada is a cruise port and buses come out past where we live on the way to the Bufadora (a huge blowhole), and they'll stop up on the main road where locals have strings of horses that tourists ride down to the beach. These horses are so skinny! And I see horses all over the place tied up with pretty short ropes. Those cruise ships look like big floating apartment buildings and have sooo many people on them. They come 4 maybe 5 times a week, and so the horses are out there alot. I think they charge 200 pesos for the short ride across the dirt road and over to the beach for a few minutes. Poor skinny horses- but these people are trying to make a living. No for me to judge and not for me to say.

I don't understand why birth control is not on everybody's mind! Again, not my business, but my blog my opinion....such poor people and sooo many kids, and so many children having children. Mexico is very complicated in it's culture, it's history and it's current situations on so many levels, in so many areas. I know it's hard to think about tomorrow when you are struggling today. Many times what do not see is hope. That's a hard one.

Lower my expectations- customer service is not top priority. Recently a friend of mine who has lived in Europe told me that customer service is an American thing. Finding it lacking here is not odd but rather the norm. There can be 10 cash registers in the store, only 2 open with 20 people waiting in line. Nobody complains. When I first came to Mexico I would get frustrated and say something loudly. People turn to look at me. When I had that meltdown in the phone company- customers and employees alike turned to look at me. People do not complain- they wait. In Mexico everything is possible, but you must wait for everything. I used to say things here are simple but never easy. I was wrong- they are never simple. I had to work on my acceptance or I was gonna go crazy.

We opened a bank account down in Guerrero, with Santander- no problem moving because they are all over Mexico. Now, down there it was an all day affair- it was an hour north driving to Cruz Grande, the first city big enough for a bank. When you get there- every time- there is a line down the street before they open and it stays that way all day. When it's your turn, you get their full attention, even if you simply visit after your business is done- even though there is a huge line waiting. When we moved up to Puerto Penasco, Sonora- there was a bank, but it busy all of every day. You always wait. Ok so we move over here to Baja, just south of Ensenada. They have 2!! Santander branches, and one is at the south end of town and so convenient for us. Recently my husband's atm card wasn't  working that good when swiped at the store, so we stopped in to see if we could get another. The answer was yes- but not one with his name on it- because....(this is a good one).....we didn't open our account there and they will only send a new card with his name on it to the location where we opened the account. WHAT?? Yes they can electronically move funds, they even receive money from our U.S account. They have our new address, they can see our accounts on their screen, and can print us out a statement if we like. But they can NOT give us a card with our name on it. We can open a new account there and then they will give us new atm cards with our names on them. But they can NOT close the old account.....because (right?) because we have to go to the location where we opened it and close it there. ahhhhh ok- what if we take all the money out? Well then it will sit in pending.. and if you leave money in it- it has to be more than 1500 pesos, or they will penalize you and take 150 pesos each month until you increase your balance. If it goes to zero then it moves to pending. Hey- clear as mud!

One thing I'll say about that card with no name- I actually kind of like it because it has a chip in it, so when the card is swiped for a transaction- your name pops up on the screen. Not a bad idea in case it gets stolen, cause most places are pretty good about asking for id with cards unless they know you.

Now for us, as it turns out, I was planning a trip to the US and could set up a new express send so we could transfer to a new account. And we are also planning a trip down to Guerrero to see our house, make some repairs, ect, so we could spend a day in Cruz Grande to close it. So we opened a new account- we just felt that it was better to do it now when we're planning to go down there, and not be forced to at some other point. So it's working out- but the technology and lack of understanding it sometimes just floors me! So patience..acceptance is the key to surviving here for me ha ha.

Be open- logic does not always lead the way! This sort of goes with the above about not "expecting" things or services or attitudes. When I go with the flow here, things seem to have a way of working out. When we got up to Sonora I really wanted to join a zumba class, but they were not cheap, and then if you did pay, the class may or may not be there, or start when you think it us "supposed to", etc. After grumbling about it for a few months, I started following Everardo down to the "ovalo" where he ran on the track while soccer games usually went on in the middle. I put on my ipod and started walking for an hour down there in the evening. After a couple of weeks I saw off to the side a group of women....then heard the music...zumba! I walked over and was motioned into the dance. It was free, it was a class every day- 5 days a week! Apparently the Mexican government wants women to be more healthy and zumba classes are free in many cities. In Penasco they had classes at about 5 different sites. In Ensenada they have them as well, in the morning and the evening, but it's too far for me to go- at least a half hour. But in Penasco I went every week nite and had a ball. I went for months as so learned alot of steps. I was the only American- even tho there are lots of Americans and Canadian there- but it's kinda weird how they kinda don't mix. It's kind of Arizona's playground and sometimes the arrogance of that was quite troubling to me. Anyway it was great for my Spanish, and I got invited to family parties and really felt "a part of".

I loved the instructor, Erika and am now facebook friends with her and several of the other women from class. Erika did me a huge favor and downloaded all her music for me! So here I have made lemonade. I put the music on my ipod and every morning I take the dogs and I dance and walk on the beach for an hour. I feel great and my doggies get to run and swim and play.  I dance by myself and mostly make it up as I go. I am at an age where I finally don't care what anybody thinks about me, When I was a drunk I always danced wherever I was, then was ashamed or embarrassed later- but it's been a long time since then more than 13 years...and in that time, and really since moving to Mexico I have come to know, trust and love myself. The beach is her mostly deserted, a person or two walking their dogs in the morning or late afternoon...those who pass me give me a wave or a thumbs up. I was in the rental office paying rent a few weeks back- it's just down the road from us, and this older woman looks at me and asks- esta mujar que baile en la playa? Yes I said. She told me she wished she could do it. I told her she could. Just takes desire.....

I love love love Mexico!! I love the slower life. Yeah sometimes manana never comes, but the less stress is nice. And it takes some getting used to. I love the people, I love the music, I love smells, I love love all the food vendors- we never go to restaurants- we eat at home or the stands. I love living near the ocean, I can sit for hours watching the waves, the pelicans, and sometimes dolphins and/or seals. Our dogs are so happy. No leash laws, and our dogs always poop in the bushes or on the beach, so soon enough its gone. People are so nice, so open, always willing to help me stumble thru my Spanish (altho I am much much better than when I got hee). We always stop and gave people rides. But I also love the public transportation- there are so many buses all the time- bg ones for long distance but lots a small shuttle type buses always moving people from one place to another. And they'll stop along the road and pick someone up...not only at designated stops.

Ok I don't trust the police but I have never had any problem with them. And what a deal! When we did back into someone- the police were called- they surveyed the minimal damage to the other car's front bumper/headlight, and announced we had to pay 1500 pesos. The people followed us to the bank and we paid them. End of story. No insurance company, no estimates, no nothing. Done. Everardo didn't even get a ticket- altho' that cost him 200 pesos- but better it was all done right then.
 I don't know anything about all the violence of the cartels, gangs, etc. I don't do drugs, I don't have any criminal friends or even acquaintances...so I am not around or even aware of violence or illegal activities.The bad guys deal with and fight with each other. I believe the U.S. reports it solely to try to get people to spend their vacation dollars at home.

I love the healthcare I can afford. Doctor and dentist. I don't go where the Americans go around here...they flock to Ensenada to the English speaking doctor just for them (ha ha sarcasm) Actually this place we're currently living is around the most Americans we been around....we are out on a spit, but up at the main road there's a couple of restaurants, a veterinarian, etc, but we don't go to any of them. The restaurants charge U.S. prices!! There's a town up the road maybe 5 minutes that is a Mexican town- we got to the dentist and doctor there, as well as grocery shopping or out to eat. Ensenada is a mixture but I'm lucky being married to  Mexican because we find the places that are NOT catering to expats. It costs 25 pesos to see the doctor, and if he gives you any meds...those are cheap as well. Oh it costs 35 pesos on Sunday (less than $3.50 USD). It goes to show that the U.S is so so so wrong with healthcare. It's insurance companies and drug manufacturers...(ok I do think that Obamacare is a good start- but just a start down a really long road).

I love the family atmosphere, families are close (and of course big). I love the celebrations for so many holidays! Always about food and plenty of it, and always about music. It did take me a while to figure out the time thing. If you are told the party is at 6pm, and you show up at 6pm...they will look at you in surprise. Even 8pm is kinda early. And they never end! Music and food all nite. Everybody watches the little ones, older kids, parents, grandparents, aunts and uncles- the whole it takes a village to raise a child concept works here.

Ok climate is everything. The weather matters. I already knew I never wanted to live anywhere that it snowed. Hey I'm a Calif girl....I like the sun. I don't even like to go snow skiing. I've been to the snow, especially when the kids were small so they could experience it- sleddding, snowball fights, hot chocolate....but cold is not my thing. I am from the northbay area above San Francisco so it can get foogy, rainy in winter, really cold....but not freezing snowstorm cold! But, as it turns out there are levels of heat that I found out I can't take either.

 I found out I do not want to live in the tropics. The 24/7 sticky humid, push you into the ground heat is not for me. We had no hot water and I didn't care. But Playa Ventura was amazing! This was a tiny town, a fishing village, no grocery store, no atm, gas station, etc. People live there, yes a couple of small abarotes (sp) (smaller than 7-11...in front of a house or simply a stall), but that was it. Some really cool things: a boy who walked down our road with a bucket of milk from the cow they just milked! We only bought milk from him a couple of times, but still, right? The lady with the huge basket on her head with breads and pastries who came down the road every day. She always stopped with us and we gave her a glass of cold water.

But the humidity was too much. The gigantic bug bites I had the entire 6 months, I did finally find an oily lotion that helped alot and I still use it. Sleep was always always hard....you lay still and sweat. I became a big nap person. I slept best in the hammock, but at nite that was impossible because it was outside- we tried that once....my god the mosquitoes! So you sleep when  breeze comes up- any time of day. The iguanas that sunned themselves on the big rock behind our house overlooking the ocean. I sat out there for hours almost every day. The waves smashing against the rocks. The warm, really warm ocean water- I went swimming every single day- even when it rained. One day out for a walk I saw a parrot- just walking down the path! Everything was so lush and green. The prettiest place on earth maybe. And I know I already wrote about watching the tarantula fighting the chicken! ha ha I was mesmerized. The chicken won in the end....but that tarantula added to my whole- don't put your hands or face or even feet where you cannot see! The rainy season there is June thru Aug or Sept.....but it was still raining (not every day but often) when we left at the end of Nov. Oh and it's still humid and sticky when it's raining.

Ok so we moved north to the Sonoran desert on the Sea of Cortez. The winter was cold and rainy, the spring got warm warmer and slid into blistering heat. Hotter than Playa Ventura- unbearable. The desert also has boasting rights for scorpions- there they have some huge one and then a tiny one more dangerous than all the others! The desert is dry, dirt everywhere. We lived on a dirt road just like in Playa Ventura. We did have hot water- altho once it started to warm up we stopped using it. The truth is you can wash your dishes in cold water and get them clean. I learned that in Guerrero.I was careful to be sure they were really clean, and guess what? We didn't die. I had the amazing opportunity to teach English to adults out at a community center where the poorest of people lived; they came for lunch every day, and for many, it was the only meal they had that day. But- people were happy, and loving and giving. It's weird- I wrote about people not having hope for the future, and yet they are happy today. That's what  mean about being complicated. But when I stop trying to understand every single thing....it's easier to exist.

We stayed almost a year in Puerto Penasco. My husband had some friends and he worked selling jewelry he made to tourists on the beach. But I grew less, well, happy. I didn't like the weather, and it wasn't pretty like the tropics. It was the desert. Hot and dirty and bland. Yes there are pretty cactus, hmmm not sure I can go on from there. My husband is a wonderful man, so we came over to Baja to "check it out". It was hot in September, but NOT humid! It was pretty, and it was the Pacific again. I was instantly ready to go ha ha. We talked an visited here again. We decided and we moved here last November. I am really happy here. And truthfully it's all about the weather. I have not been able to find a place to interact to improve my Spanish, but I did find a website I really like. Everardo has not been able to find a place to sell his jewelery- people have their spots and guard them closely. However he is talking to a couple of people- one in Ensenanda in the tourist area, and one out at the Bufadora where people flock to- it's always packed. He's not looking really hard and I don't want him to push. We are cruising along right now. He got a new fishing reel and goes out to the estuary and next is going to try open ocean. We are both working out with the free gym equipment in an empty house down the road. He runs with the dogs in the afternoon. He goes to Spanish AA meetings and I got to English - I could use the Spanish meetings to practice- but we need some things just for ourselves, ya know? It's foggy sometimes in the morning- that's familiar to me. Supposedly it doesn't get really cold or really hot- and never humid. I think I'm good with that!

We can afford to live here without jobs, living off the income of the rental house we have in Calif. Our life is quiet, we enjoy our dogs, our beach, and our nightly walks along the estuary.
I have changed emotionally over the last 2 years. I am more patient (sometimes) I am in acceptance much more of the time. I am more thoughtful. I am much more grateful, especially for the little things. Wow I feel like I've been writing for hours and not even sure if I said everything I had in my mind to write when I thought about it last nite as I fell asleep. Oh-

We are in Baja and just 2.56 hours from the border- someone said not the real Mexico. As soon as we cross the border we are in Mexico. Anywhere in Mexicoyou can surround yourself with expats if you want to, or you can live as a Mexican, or somewhere in between. I guess we're in between leaning towards living as Mexicans since my husband is one already ha ha.

Did I say I love Mexico?

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